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 Post subject: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 6th, '14, 02:59 
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Location: Marlborough,Wiltshire,UK
Hi
I have a vanilla one IBC system plus solar oxygenator. I have my own well water.
The system has been running for 7 days. 30 fingerling Rainbow Trout where added on day 5. They seem happy and are feeding on about 1 teaspoon of commercial food a day. 2% of body weight. Water temp swings from 9.5C to 11.6C (adding insulation to reduce this variation).
PH of water from the well is 7.4 but current tank PH is 8.2.
Initial water chemical reading where all zero or within parameters except Nitrates which were borderline high. I added six 6cm plants to the grow bed to balance this on day 6.
Will repeat chemical test 7 days after initial test.
So????????????????????????
My Question is?
I want to dramatically ramp up production of watercress, with added grow bed system BUT.
How long should I wait until this system is stable?
Regards
Titus
Ps Pics will be added if I can figure the system

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 6th, '14, 03:55 
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test regularly, you still aren't "cycled" fully.. when your ammonia starts to rise, you may want to add salt to 1ppt, since the nitrites will be rising shortly after that, and both can be harmful to fish.. when they do go up, hold off on feed until they drop (the readings)
photo's must be sized 800X600 - to post, go to "full editor" and below the text box, click browse to upload pic's from your computer

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 7th, '14, 05:03 
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Thanks Keith
Tested this evening Ammonia up a bi Nitrites stable Nitrates possibly higher.
When you talk about salt? Will dishwasher salt do?
Regards
Titus


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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 7th, '14, 05:08 
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Pure pool salt (i.e. dried sea salt). 1kg per 1000L = 1ppt

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 7th, '14, 05:27 
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You don't have to wait to be properly cycled to grow vegies, you can throw in as much watercress as you want. You can put in some seaweed extract (make sure it's just extract, no boosters or fertilizers), it'll give it a bit of a head start.But it'll grow fine until the system starts cranking.

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: May 8th, '14, 03:42 
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Hi
Thank you all for your advice.
Salt!
If I am going to salt; Let’s use the best.
Anglesey Sea Salt. As used by Royalty and Presidents.
£37.5 per kilo! That’s for, ‘Vanilla” .
Smokey, celery or chili flavor extra!
Anyway joking aside got some from local pet shop.
However. For the moment I decided to go with a partial water change.
I have been running the FT at 700l ltrs. I reduced this to 600 and then added 200 ltrs from my well.
I have great confidence in my well water.
Ok! Now I am going to boast.
Samuel Pepys, on his way from London to Bath, stayed overnight in Marlborough and I quote,: Dined exceedingly well on Trout, Crayfish and Watercress.
25% water change. You would expect the Ammonia to reduce by 25%.
Say 0.4mg/ltre to 0.3mg/ltre.
My FT Ph was running at 8.4 by adding well water at 7.4 again a reduction.
After water change Ft tested PH at 8.3
Other tests as per attached photo.
I know I am overstocked with fish but hatchery manager was so nice I could not refuse when he added extra to my order.
As you can guess by my reference to Pepys my aim is to find a niche market for watercress to supplement my pension.
But WOw! am I enjoying this.

Regards and thanks
Titus
Ps If I take photos on my Iphone Email them to myself select medium they seem to upload with no problem


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photo 2.JPG
photo 2.JPG [ 89.87 KiB | Viewed 9294 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jun 8th, '14, 19:37 
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Is it worth adding ‘sprinkles’ to my Vanilla set up?
In other words would you add a horizontal aerator bar, and/or end bends to give a swirl, over the fish tank.
If Yes. How would you retrofit it. Smaller diameter pipe and cable ties come to mind

Titus

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jun 9th, '14, 20:56 
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if your pump is strong enough, put a "T" in your riser to the growbed, and divert off some flow (with a valve to adjust flow) back to the ft to add aeration..

i'd still put in an aerator, you should be able to find a "bait tank" aerator, that will plug in but also has batteries for backup

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jun 11th, '14, 06:58 
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Hi Keith
Many many thanks!
Serendipity strikes! ( a lucky accident)
I had a 40mm bulkhead fitting with 100mm upright into the grow bed.
The original plan was to run a 32mm pipe inside this ending in the ‘T’ piece with holes drilled into the horizontal pipes and swept bends on a contra flow at each end. This would be secured with cable ties.
However it was late. The straight line coupler I intended to put at the top of the pipe was almost 100mm so in the I just removed the original 40mm pipe and replaced it.
The result is the new 32mm ‘T’ bar pipe now rotates gently over the FT .
I have a gravity fed contra flow rotating aerator.
On a technical note there is a slight reduction in the height of the water drop with a corresponding reduction in oxygen pickup. But there is a greater air/water surface area which I think more than compensate for this.
It looks wicked! My grandson says this is the ultimate accolade.
Titus

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jun 17th, '14, 05:23 
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Just as everything is finally coming together, white spot!
I was worried about high Nitrite levels. I had salted to 1ppt but the cold weather was I think a factor in Nitrite remaining high for so long.
When I saw the first symptoms I salted to 3ppt. The weather then warmed up. This and running CF raised the temperature in the FT by 8* This I think increased the speed and spread of the parasite.
I have three tough little fish left.
Next steps?
I have improved the insulation on the FT to reduce temperature swings.
I did a 50% water change today using tap water. ( somewhere I read about tap water reducing parasite growth)
I am going to increase the water mass by adding a sump tank and possibly a swirl filter tank. This would double as a hospital tank if required.An additional air pump for this as well
In the second phase of the parasite growth they are free swimming in water.
I could also use this hospital tank as constant flow (from well water) to waste to flush them away.
Should I have salted to 6ppt? Probably yes. I’ve ordered a salinity meter so in future I will have more control over this.
I’ve read that at 6* it takes about 28 days for the infection cycle to end.
I am running close to 15*C the SET for trout so do you think after 28 days it will be safe to restock?
Any comment, advice and suggestions would as always be more than welcome.
Titus


Attachments:
Grow Tubes.JPG
Grow Tubes.JPG [ 139.14 KiB | Viewed 9140 times ]
Grow bed.JPG
Grow bed.JPG [ 147.55 KiB | Viewed 9140 times ]
Rotating Aereator.JPG
Rotating Aereator.JPG [ 84.34 KiB | Viewed 9140 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jul 13th, '14, 07:03 
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It has been a hectic couple of weeks.
The white spot left me with three fish.
One by one they decide to jump.
I decided to restock.
100% water change.
Wait one week.
However, I first fitted plastic mesh.
Two 220 ltr barrels were also incorporated into the system.
An RFF fed by a SLO and a sump.
The sump is also connected by a on/off bypass to the FT.
I can now isolate and use the RFF tank as a high salinity tank and or a flow thru tank.
From well to waste.
From an estimated 600 ltr the water volume has now increased to approx 1050 ltr.. This will help with temperature fluctuations.
My pump is a nominal 3000l trs per hour. Running 15/45 slightly underpowered. I have bought a 4500 ltr pump. However at the moment I am running 15/45 7am to 7pm and 30/30 overnight.
All the interconnections are 40 mm pipe with the exception of the RFF to ST where I had to drop to 32 mm to run behind the FT.
Usual problems with leaky joint. Solved today.
Yesterday I finally managed to get some liquid seaweed and added three cap fulls.
Strangely the PH tonight had dropped to 8.0 from a constant 8.2.
Am 0.1 Nitrite 0 Nitrate high ( No food tonight)
However because of all the changes I have added water from many different sources so will wait to see what happens.
I am trying to keep the salinity around 1PPT. However the cheap meter I bought from E bay really only tells me it is less than 3PPT.
Fish seem happy.
Wife loves the watercress but thinks that fish need rock in Ft to “play around”
Titus

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jul 15th, '14, 03:21 
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As the title of my thread says I started with ‘Vanilla’
Of all the additions and modifications so far the one that has impressed me the most is the horizontal “splurger” 32 mm pipe with 90 bends ( 45 to the horizontal) at each end. Holes drilled along the length.
You can see the water circulating.
The fish ( Rainbow trout) move to the edges of the IBC and sit in the flow.
The mesh is to reduce ‘Jumpers’ cable tied to bottom of IBC
Titus


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Contra flow.JPG
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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jul 15th, '14, 05:28 
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Hi

This looks like a very interesting system. I want to let you know that if you want to track your pool chemistry, or how your system is going on-line you can on . Its was developed as part of a research project that I am doing to view how acquaponics is going in the real world. It helps track your own system, as well as being able to look at how other system's are tracking.

Ria

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jul 20th, '14, 19:11 
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Hi Ria
Thank you for the invite,
but no.
Titus

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 Post subject: Re: Vanilla
PostPosted: Jul 20th, '14, 19:13 
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Hello
We are having a warm spell here at the moment, even the night time temperatures are approaching 18*c. Despite the increase in water mass up from 600 ltr to 1000 ltr and the improved insulation water temperature is concerning.
At the moment I am running 4 mtr of PVC tubes (radiators).
The planned increase next year to 40 mtr would I think take me well into the danger zone for Rainbow Trout.
So I need to do a rethink on fish species.
I want to stay, as native as possible, and not really add supplementary heating/cooling.
I would also prefer edible fish.
Trout fingerlings will be available locally around Christmas.
Normally temperature should not be a problem till May, possibly June.
What to do for the rest of the year
I am considering Common Carp (readily available or Jian Carp if I can get it)
The other possibility is European Perch. I understand that both of these will tolerate water temperatures up 30*c
However they are slower growing and there will probably be an overlap with the trout. It also seems that the Carp are happy with fewer numbers ,where as the Perch prefer company.
Advice please.
Titus

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