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PostPosted: Feb 10th, '10, 20:10 
Salting alone would probably have solved the problem Kelly... be wary of applying "aquaria" products to AP systems... most are carcenogenic... and were never meant to be used with fish destined for human consumption...

Out of interest, just what was the finrot "treatment" that you used... ??


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PostPosted: Feb 10th, '10, 20:36 
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Was an aquarium product Rupe. Science products Fungus and Fin ROT. We've isolated the fish from the system before dosing and as it's only 4 " long will be a long time before it's in the frypan. Having said that, it's good to hear this feedback, you're a wealth of Knowledge. Thanks


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PostPosted: Feb 10th, '10, 20:37 
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Also we still have the fish isolated and probably will for some time.


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PostPosted: Feb 10th, '10, 21:10 
Kewl... good to hear you have isolated the fish from the system...in which case you could have gone to 6ppt of salt.... and indeed still could.... but if it appears to be healing, then perhaps no need...

Maintain the salt level in the isolation tank for at least a week to 2 weeks...

Did you salt the main tank at all???.... and what are your current test readings from your main tank... including water temp???


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PostPosted: Feb 11th, '10, 06:50 
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We did salt the ap tank to about 1ppt.I know we are pushing close to having dangerous ammonia levels but have a broken temp gauge( going to Gero today to get one).What's the go with using a PH down solution, are they ok to use? Also we have cut down feeding the fish Readings
AMM : 0.5
NTRATE : 150
NTRITE : 0.1
PH : 8.2


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PostPosted: Feb 11th, '10, 11:17 
Looks like you need more plants, or more growbeds... your nitrate reading certainly suggests that you could feed more plants...

But I suspect that your trace readings of ammonia and nitrite... along with your nitrate reading... suggests that with your current feed rate... you're underfiltered...

Another growbed would help in both ways... :wink:

I'm not a fan of pH down... mainly because you can't be sure what's in it... but HCl acid will do the job...


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PostPosted: Feb 12th, '10, 06:53 
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New test results Rupe.Sorry for putting it under this topic we don't have a post on this system.It's on the same power as the solar system just bought onother pump
Ntrate 80
Ntrite 0.1
Ammon 0.25
Ph 8
Temp 23


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PostPosted: Feb 12th, '10, 07:51 
Things are looking OK there Kelly....


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PostPosted: Feb 12th, '12, 15:49 
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You don’t have to convert anything to metric;

one teaspoon per gallon is very close to 1.5 ppt (0.15% ),
two teaspoons per gallon is 3 ppt.
and
one Tablespoon of salt per five gallons is about 1 ppt.

For those who prefer to work in litres,
one teaspoon per six litres is 1 ppt.

A Tablespoon of salt weighs 18.3 grams
so one Tablespoon of salt per 18.3 litres is 1 ppt.

Please note that the above are US teaspoons, Tablespoons and gallons.
One UK teaspoon of salt per Imperial gallon is 1 ppt.
One UK Tablespoon per Imp. gallon is 4 ppt.

These are accurate to within about three percent.


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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '12, 15:29 
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Great information but what brand of salinity refractor is the best to use today? Thanks

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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '12, 16:36 
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I have this one bear

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Salinity-Por ... 465wt_1165

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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '12, 16:49 
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If you've got a pool shop nearby -- become friends with them, and you'll get your salinity analysis done professionally, digitally, for free!

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '12, 04:45 
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Thanks charlie and no pool shop in our area Bunson. Cheers

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PostPosted: Oct 11th, '12, 08:34 
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Came across this discussion on pool salt on Whirlpool and thought I would post a quote and a link to it as it may be useful - particularly where pH and suspended solids was mentioned:

Quote:
YES, bunnings salt is MUCH lower quality. Salt for swimming pools is evaporated (as mined salt has too many minerals in it), 'first grade' salt such as Olssen's and Cheetham's Mermaid brand salt (Sunray salt aka 'the bad stuff' is also produced by Cheethams) is scooped off the top of the salt bed, filtered and ground finely (which helps it dissolve quickly). 'Second grade' salt aka Sunray is the dregs they get off the bottom, and includes 10% 'undissolvable solids', or to put it another way, mud.

Second grade salt also has a much higher level of minerals in such as copper and iron, which is what causes staining.

Now second grade salt can be used IF your pH is 7.0-7.7 (any higher or lower and the minerals are likely to drop out of suspension, causing stains), IF you brush it in very well to make sure it's all dissolved (otherwise it will cause stains) and IF your filtration is good enough to remove the mud (otherwise, yes, stains).

Stains can occur with first grade salt but it is MUCH less likely, hence why decent pool shops don't stock second grade.

With the salt crisis we had here in Queensland at the start of the year, a lot of my customers used second grade salt from bunnings or woolworths/coles as it was all they could get (and even that was very patchy) and about 5 dozen have since had to remove staining.

Unless there is a salt shortage such as this one, don't bother using it, the difference in price isn't worth it.


The full discussion can be found here

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PostPosted: Oct 11th, '12, 14:19 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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What rubbish i used bunnings salt for 5 years no problem

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