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 Post subject: Warragul J
PostPosted: Nov 18th, '12, 18:16 
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Following on from this thread. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14108&start=15

Here is my checklist:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... nRLOGQwUUE

Here is my design notes and more indepth checklist with help from @Mantis
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UfL ... JaRAM/edit

I have started collating pipes from my dad's place - I have everything I need minus the bulk heads and 2 step downs from 90-40. Should be able to find what I need in this hoard of goodies, thanks DAD!
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Here is my pump idea - an AJAX hardy external pump thats just on off with power - so will be using a timed 15/45. Its bullet proof but will need a little house externally. 3.5amps
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But I might try this also because it's quieter (Dad's sump pump) and buy him a cheaper version at bunnings.
Or I could buy another pump.
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I have x3 IBC' - 1000 ltr fishtank, 500litr growbed x3, 500 ltr sump (will expand with blue barrels cause they are free, or get another IBC for x3 sumps)

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Some more info on this cool pump:
Image
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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Nov 18th, '12, 20:13 
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Good to see you haver made a start :headbang:

That old pump looks like a dead set bewdie :thumbleft:

I wonder what sort of current draw it has?

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Nov 18th, '12, 20:45 
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Yeah not sure.
It has 230v 3.35 amps 50 cycles

the two pictures below

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 7th, '13, 16:40 
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Had a crack today in the heat.

My Stash which didn't really turn out many good things in 40mm
Image

Okay this is interesting:
* The one on the left is the system I came up with for the stand pipe. Then I realised that I was going to put them into the lids and had another go.
* On the right is the lid with white middle part removed and replaced with a threaded black thing which has another thread inside - I didn't think you could get threads that would fit IBCs for some reason.
*top is the tap I found but it doesn't fit a 40mm pipe without a flange - can you get smaller (non-pressure) 40mm taps?
* the bottom one is an elbow that fits the bulkhead that I have heaps of and didn't need to buy the white ones on the left. The lady said it was fine to return stuff also which is great.


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Here is a closer image of the part that fits into the lid
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The other lid has a white thing but it looks like its melted in so I may have to do something different for the other growbed.

The pump with fittings (again 40mm pipe doesn't fit that is not flanged - no drama, I'll just use elbow here. Of course the pump has to be lower than this to get the bottom of the sump (or does it?)
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SLO
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Outlet with T for venturi
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Water for beds: Step downs and 100mm guards with lids
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This one I found fits 40mm pipe without flange (non pressure)
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So bowing from the bottom sump (may need to cut a little lower as the corners of the top pallet hit it.
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Problem: The tap broke off the bottom sump with it half open - silcone and lid?
Image


Getting there :dontknow:

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 7th, '13, 19:32 
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THe other lid
Image

Is this enough support?
Image

Would these be good ends for the gloop filter or should I use caps and drilled holes on the bottom of the 90mm pipe?
Image

An basic idea for the bottom of the stand pipes
Image

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 04:26 
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Maybe I should just cut the lip off that lid and then use the bulkheads?

Also do I need to paint the IBC's? or will some bambo or brush screening eliminate the algae & UV problems?

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 05:42 
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Before you fix any of the old pipe and fittings ensure you give them all a good clean out, this includes the pump. Small amount of contamination can cause you trouble in the system.

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 05:44 
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Thanks CC - does that just mean running water through the pump?

Also would you recommend connecting 2 sumps together?
Both are the bottoms of the IBC's and have that outlet but not sure how to connect. I also have bulkheads but they would be situated about 15-20cm above the bottoms because of the curve.

Is this silicone the right stuff?
Image

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 07:10 
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If they are second hand I give them a scub with warm water and deterent, fresh water rinse as minimium.

Silicon is debatable by people, I use sicaflex drinking water safe. Some use normal silicon and wait till it has fully cured so the fumes are gone. I believe bathroom and kitchen slicons have antimold added and they are not recommended.

Joining through the IBC valves can be done, you can get the correct fitting from irrigation or farm co ops. They are expensive. Some members have jury rigged pvc fittings but most tend to use uniseals and pvc pipe. Just ensure that no one can stand on the pipes. The last thing you need is a busted pipe and loss of water.

As for joining the sumps it depends on what system you are runing. As Rupert suggest go CHIFT PIST and you will need a pump in the sump and sumps joined unless you are going to use two pumps which just cost more in power, pumps and maintenance.

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 07:34 
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I'm using an external pump (with a simple HPM timer) as you can see in the pictures - does that need to be at the lowest level possible to stay primed for 15/45 intervals?

I think I'll just use bulkheads because I already bought them for this purpose but does it matter if they are up the IBC a bit because of the rounded bottoms? Basically I want to make the 2 sumps join as one.

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 08:49 
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No they can be joined up a bit, the water will be mixed each time the sumps are filling so no dead water should occur

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 10:22 
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Ended up finding some fittings that go from the IBC Thread outlet down to 40mm pipe. Was the same price as returning other items so did the job well and also allowed me to use petrol hose which is flexible to allow the slight slow in the concrete and possible movement of IBC's side as water fills up.

Got some sikaflex also and some black spray paint.

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 11:27 
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Sorry also ment to say you could just wrap stuff around to shut out the light. I painted mine to start with then insulater and wrapped corrigated roofing around as to make it look good.

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 11:41 
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So I don't need to spray it also?
Corrugated iron will look nice I think. with a wooden lip on the top.
thanks again

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 Post subject: Re: Warragul J
PostPosted: Jan 8th, '13, 11:49 
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Check out my thread in my signiture, page 4 maybe shows the bed an sump being made, also used the same type of tank fittings for my stand pipe. Have a quick look through at the photos you may get a few ideas. Cheers

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