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PostPosted: Mar 21st, '18, 22:27 
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About breeding, well at least 2 years down the road.
I choose Kune because of size and that they do not plow your garden, like long snout pigs do.
I have some grassy areas, were the horses don't get to, I have to mow them for fire safety. Kune grasse and with a little electric fencing can take care of those trouble spots during the day. When I am at work or during the night they go into the duck and geese pen/house.
I have given up on birds, to many flying predators around.
And Kune are very hardy and can survive the harsh winters up here, they develop a real winter coat. In the winter they can eat the same hay as the horses, so no extra shopping for them.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '18, 02:01 
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Thanks Gnoib, the KuneKunes look and sound perfect for high mountain living.

I'm experimenting with tapping PVC for the air-lift pump.
Attachment:
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-90-degree-angle.jpg
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-90-degree-angle.jpg [ 47.33 KiB | Viewed 1779 times ]

I'm thinking I'll use a shaper, file or large drill bit to trim the protruding portion of the threaded end (inside the PVC pipe) so it fits inside the narrow chamber of the pump. Since this seems easily done the next issue I want to address is the right angle of the hose barb side of the adapter. On my current air-lift pump the hose barb comes out at 90 degrees and it tends to kink the nylon hose. Also, I admire the way JoeBlow did his, but I didn't think I could do that with the accuracy he must possess.
For my plan, I would have bought a 90 degree elbow, but couldn't find one in nylon so I could trim it like I'll do with the adapter, so...
Attachment:
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-45-degree-angle.jpg
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-45-degree-angle.jpg [ 43.73 KiB | Viewed 1779 times ]

This angle required that I start with a tiny drill bit and slowly increase the bit size until reaching 7/16" which the tap needs.
This worked with no mishaps, so I'll move forward and drill the air-lift cover at the same angle.

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '18, 22:08 
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You could prevent kinking by running the hose in spring sleeve.


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PostPosted: Mar 22nd, '18, 22:13 
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Good morning.
How is everybody?
I hope to get my head straight after foot pain knocked me down yesterday. Today is going to be better.
gnoib wrote:
You could prevent kinking by running the hose in spring sleeve.

Great idea. Thanks

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '18, 00:04 
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Here is a video of the Firefighter combat challenge when we hosted it at my work in 2011. When they cross the finish line I am just off screen on the left, didn't quite make whoever's video this is but I was at the end of the line taking their masks off them when they cross the finish line because they would run out of air in a 40 minute tank breathing so hard that we had to remove their mask as soon as they crossed the finish line to make it so they could breathe and not pass out. Suck down a 40 minute tank in 90 seconds... they disqualified at either 4 or 5 minutes because they didn't want you passing out when they ran out of air and there were a few guys that got disqualified because they couldn't make it under the cut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEsqEI3RuCs

The course you carry 50lbs of fire hose up 5 flights (50ft) of stairs, drop the 50 lbs of hose in a basket then pull 50lbs of hose up that 5 flights from the ground then run back down the stairs, then they have to move a 100 or 150lb (can't recall) log with a 9.9lb sledge hammer deadblow like they are cutting in to a building with an axe, had to move the sled like 4 ft or something like that, then jog back and forth between markers, grab the fire hose and drag it across to some bar doors spray a target which makes the top of the target fall down, then run and drag a 200lb dummy across the finish line.

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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '18, 22:16 
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Good morning
The autoimmune disease I'm struggling to get under control has been hitting me hard since Wednesday when I began this project. While I had a great night sleep Thursday and woke at 7:00 AM I wasn't so lucky last night and have been awake since 3:00AM and out off bed since 4:00AM. We have been watching WW11 in HD Color https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_War_II_in_HD_Colour on Netflix as I am having difficulty moving around. Fascinating history lesson. Anyhow I put that on at 4:00AM until I smelled the coffee pot start brewing and got off the couch, built a fire and came to my desk to try and get my head together.

I've been working on a system to gently remove fish waste from the bottom of our 2600 gallon fish tank. Using a vaned pump would pulverize solids into the pond water making it more difficult to filter out. Instead I use an air-lift pump to get the solids which settle to the bottom up to the filters in our earth-sheltered greenhouse. Most aquaculture systems have the fish tanks above ground level so moving the fish waste out is simply a matter of gravity feeding the fish waste to filtration.
Currently we've got 100 Brook trout in our aquaponics system. This is far more fish than the aquaponics media beds can clean. So we need to have additional filtration in place.
We bought this cone-bottom tank to use as the first mechanical settling filter which will separate out the solids.

Image
3-20-18-Cone-bottom-tank-here-Snore-Still-waiting-on-NPT-tap
The solids will settle in the cone area which will make cleaning this filter easier.
The tap came in and I was able to use it to thread the PVC pipe. This allowed the threaded side of a hose barb fitting to connect securely to the PVC pipe.
Attachment:
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-90-degree-angle.jpg
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3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-90-degree-angle
Testing tapping the PVC pipe for a hose barb
Attachment:
3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-45-degree-angle.jpg
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3-21-18-AP-Air-system-upgrades-threaded-hose-barb-installation-45-degree-angle
Setting the hose barb at 45 degrees gives the polyethylene tubing a better angle heading up t the surface of the water.
Attachment:
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March-15-18-Air-lift-pump-air-chamber-still-needs-air-holes
Attachment:
March-15-18-Air-lift-pump-air-chamber-together-still-needs-air-holes-inside.jpg
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March-15-18-Air-lift-pump-air-chamber-together-still-needs-air-holes-inside

Okay I've built the air-lift pump and tested it.
Image
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and a close up
Image
3-22-18-air-lift-pump-complete2.jpg [ 74.9 KiB | Viewed 15 times ]
This is a sleeve over the main PVC pipe which has a series of tiny holes drilled in it which allows dozens of entry points for air bubbles.
-----------
Does it work?
That depends on several factors coming together or not...
I had a heck of a time finding parts I needed to create a drain if it did work
I sealed the current air delivery system as best I could and learned the first lesson in low pressure air delivery; even a minor leaks depletes all air pressure.
The air-lift pump raised the water around six inches with minimal air pressure. Not good enough for what I need in relocating the new cone-bottom RFF.
This is the first test with air from the giant aquarium style pump


As you can see this is rather mundane flow and I had to lay the PVC pipe over on its side to get even this much flow.So I decided to connect the air-lift pump to compressed air. Again it took forever to find the adapters i needed to add a valve to the air line.
The compressor is off and has been all day and has ~15 to 20 psi which of course I had to try, right?


Now that moved a crap-load of water, in fact it hit the ceiling of the greenhouse before it blew the unglued PVC fittings apart
Okay I needed to add a valve...
I dug and dug through every box of plumbing fittings I could find, finally found a 1/4" nipple

Okay tried the air compressor again, this time with a valve in line to lower the pressure, amazing! What I was seeing was a full flow from a 1 1/2" PVC pipe with a lift of 30"!!!
To continue these tests with verifiable results I need to put an air pressure gauge on the air supply and have a helper ready to measure gallons per minute. Also I'll move forward rebuilding the air delivery system from the air pump we use in the aquaponics system instead of the more costly and dirty air compressor used in the auto mechanics shop.

A guess is I can easily hit my desired mark of 30gph with an increased head height to 24".

Now that I know the air-lift pump can do what I need it to do, I can plan what the next steps are to clean the water for our 2600 gallon trout pond.
For now, I need to get ready as I just got the first job since retiring due to inflammatory arthritis building a tower for Desertgate Internet. This is of course a rush job too. I'll be working with Jason again. We need to start tomorrow. Exciting times!
Brian Rodgers

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 23rd, '18, 22:36 
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rininger85 wrote:
Here is a video of the Firefighter combat challenge when we hosted it at my work in 2011. When they cross the finish line I am just off screen on the left, didn't quite make whoever's video this is but I was at the end of the line taking their masks off them when they cross the finish line because they would run out of air in a 40 minute tank breathing so hard that we had to remove their mask as soon as they crossed the finish line to make it so they could breathe and not pass out. Suck down a 40 minute tank in 90 seconds... they disqualified at either 4 or 5 minutes because they didn't want you passing out when they ran out of air and there were a few guys that got disqualified because they couldn't make it under the cut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEsqEI3RuCs

The course you carry 50lbs of fire hose up 5 flights (50ft) of stairs, drop the 50 lbs of hose in a basket then pull 50lbs of hose up that 5 flights from the ground then run back down the stairs, then they have to move a 100 or 150lb (can't recall) log with a 9.9lb sledge hammer deadblow like they are cutting in to a building with an axe, had to move the sled like 4 ft or something like that, then jog back and forth between markers, grab the fire hose and drag it across to some bar doors spray a target which makes the top of the target fall down, then run and drag a 200lb dummy across the finish line.

These are awesome thanks. I'm sharing them to Nell's fireman/electrician son.

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 26th, '18, 20:16 
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I'm so happy, I was able to work with my buddy Jason building our first WiFi tower in over a year. I even ran a jackhammer for five or ten minutes at a time! Great day all around. Lot's of hard work, next day I was tired, but not hurting too much.
Working out every morning really is paying off.
:notworthy:
I showed my son the air-lift pump and we tried it out, again using the air compressor and valve. It worked perfectly, and it moved a lot of crap. Today I have a massage at physical therapy and afterward I'll pick up some fittings to build a system for vacuuming the bottom of our tank while doing a water change using that air-lift pump.
While my son was here we netted some fish so see how they looked at this point. They are a little over a year old now.
We caught one with a hook instantly. Beautiful fish, no issues we could see.
I threw in a handful of food and we stuck the net in and got three at once.


I still have a 1/4 of a bag of the Skettring 2.5mm trout feed left. That should last for another month, then I'll buy the 5mm pellets and really fatten them up.
Attachment:
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I feel optimistic about the air-lift pump being able to remove the massive quantity of fish waste which comes from having 100 trout in our little system, and if not, we can remove a dozen or more in the next month.
One of the issues I am considering is where to put the new 30 gallon cone-bottom RFF barrel. Knowing the air-lift can put the solids wherever I need it opens up locations outside the greenhouse for the filtration. Space is at a premium in our system. Even if I only had the filters outside for the Summer that might be worth it.
I still need more greenhouse and could extend the current structure over along the same wall for another 12 feet. :think:
This is an exciting time in my life as I had serious doubts I was going to be able to continue to have a normal life with this autoimmune disease. Still, the inflammation lingers leaving me wondering if it is going to get worse or better. I went into this tower construction project with a limp. I'm happy I can do stuff again. I've got to be cautious not to get too confident because pain isn't gone, it's tolerable.
Seedlings are coming up nicely. We didn't plant as many seeds as we have in the past because we really don't know what type of season we'll get. Plus there is the ever present worry of grasshoppers. Growing food with Climate Change coupled with New Mexico's already unpredictable weather is challenging to say the least. This year could be a terrible wildfire season if we don't get some rain soon.
How's the saying go?
We're cautiously optimistic

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '18, 00:05 
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Brian it's fairly cheap to toss up a hoop house if you wanted some cheap summer expansion area that would be protected against grasshoppers. Wink wink nudge nudge. I bet you could expand to that 12ft of space x however wide the current area is for $300-400. It wouldn't be as nice as your current area but would give you summer time expansion to be able to grow more food if you wanted to without battling the weather or bugs quite as badly as growing outdoors.

I am trying my hardest to be satisfied with the space we have until we max it out, but I really want to expand my fish capabilities so it's really gnawing at me to build a hoop house attached to my greenhouse. Not this year, not this year... I have too many other active projects to finish and debt to pay off... might be why I'm an instigator for others to spend their money so I can live vicariously through their pictures =)

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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '18, 22:49 
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Good morning!
We do need more room for plants. What can I do about it right now when it would be most advantageous? That's the question. We still have cattle on our pasture. I called the guy that leases the space and asked him to get them off or fix the fence where they are getting into the yard. He's coming out today to see what we can do. I want to uncover our Koi pond, but the cows keep coming in for water. The cows rub against everything, the house, the pond, the picnic table. Our dogs make matters worse when the cows come in the yard by chasing them around in utter chaos, well that's what happened to the fence anyway.
I'm still suffering with inflammatory arthritis and have been for a week. Sometimes everything together feels overwhelming. I decided to take a pain killer this morning to see if that would help. I hope so.
Even when life isn't full-on intense the little things can wear us down. I've taken to writing my morning newsletter again and this makes me feel clearer and better.

I've got the new cone-bottom barrel (CBB) in the living-room while I figure out how I want to plumb the interior. I'm so thankful my wife is interested and encouraging as I explain mechanical musings. It makes writing my ideas and questions down easier and hopefully clearer after I explained and discussed the concepts of the new radial flow filter (RFF) with her yesterday.
I love the way RFF works. A geyser of fish waste flows up from the SLO (bottom drains) which reverses direction due to gravity and falls gently to the bottom of the barrel. This all works because of the rate of flow at each stage of this type of mechanical filtration is gentle. With the RFF we currently run the barrel is tall and narrow with a flow of 5 GPM. It is my intention to increase the flow through the filters to 30 GPM. The flow increase must not disturb the fish waste or it may dissolve in the water making it more difficult to filter out.
Attachment:
CBB-Radial-Flow-Filter-.png
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In the image I pulled off the Internet this morning calls the integral part of an RFF a "Shroud" I'll call it a "Stilling Well." The Stilling Well separates the flow moving down from the surrounding body of clear water.

As BYAP Scotty mentioned, the designers of these CBB didn't leave much room to get in the top of the tank to work. Considerations now are whether being able to pressurize the filter is something I care about and or would cutting the top opening larger be okay? I'm leaning toward removing the top so I can create the flows I need.
I'll need to take advantage of the wider CBB as flow through the larger diameter will be slower.

What I see with this design is flow needs to move all the way around the stilling well to get to the outflow. Wouldn't this disrupt the flow dropping to the bottom of the barrel? Something similar may happen at the bottom of the stilling well with increased flow. I'm considering a wider stilling well to increase the area water can move in as to spread the flow and decrease velocity.
So fitting a wider Stilling Well into the barrel will require a wider top, unless I can find a way to create an expanding shaft such as an umbrella employs. :think:
I come back to the question of whether I need a sealed chamber. I don't see other RFFs sealed. Our current RFF isn't closed on top, although it does have a lid. I think I wanted a lid to protect it from overflowing if clogged.
Would a sealed chamber just stop flowing if the outflow became clogged?

Outside the weather looks promising
Attachment:
3-27-18-looks-promising.jpg
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This is my story for this morning.
Thanks for reading, I'll be listening for replies.
Brian

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '18, 02:32 
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Always like reading your stories Brian :thumbright:
boss wrote:
So fitting a wider Stilling Well into the barrel will require a wider top, unless I can find a way to create an expanding shaft such as an umbrella employs. :think:

You could take a piece of pliable yet sturdy material, like a sheet of EPDM. Cut a rectangle to the dimensions you want the stilling well to be and make a way to connect the sides (maybe just zipties?) to create a tube. That way you can roll the whole thing up as it goes into the CBB and make it any dimension you want. Some overlap along the length of the tube would prevent any relevant seeping. Then you'd have to connect the tube to the CBB, but assuming you're not going to pressurize it, that could also just be some zipties through the top.

boss wrote:
Would a sealed chamber just stop flowing if the outflow became clogged?

If sealed properly, sure it would stop, but then you'd just have an unsealed overflow elsewhere eventually.

Hope you're doing better with that arthritis, that must be really shitty.

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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '18, 05:32 
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Brian if you attach your "Shroud/Stilling Well" to a top lid you'll have plenty of room to get in the top of the tank to work. With the lid removed there will be only the verticle pipe sitting in the centre of your tank to worry about, and if you don't glue that in it's easily removed and you have full access.

I'd also make the "Shroud/Stilling Well" twice the length of the one in the diagram to force the solids further down the tank. The shorter "Shroud/Stilling Well" would allow the solids to rise too early and you wouldn't get all your solids going to the bottom of the tank.

And I think having the water outlet exit directly out the side of the tank would give you a better flow and less restriction than having it go down through another bend to leave the tank, and there's not point in having that extra elbow.

With your verticle pipe use 2 x 45 degree elbows not a single 90 degree to get a smoother flow into the tank.

On the question of whether you need a sealed chamber or not, I have both my RFF and my MBBF sealed, and up until now it has made no difference to how things run whatsoever. I have recently built a large venturi for the fish tank to give the Trout that little bit of extra DO and to get it to run properly I had to increase the water flow into the fish tank quite a bit, and what that has done is increased the water levels in both the RFF & MBBF to the very top of the tanks so the sealed lids are now necessary to stop any overflow.


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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '18, 06:48 
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Oh wow o wow. Thanks guys. Depusa I love your idea so much I will try that. That's exactly what I was thinking with the umbrella structure. Like a ship in a bottle.
I got the idea of folding the stilling well from a friend researching earwig wings. But this was super complicated. Thank you for making it simplified.


Jowblow, yes yes yes. I love this place. Thank you

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '18, 21:19 
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Good morning
Thanks to a friend on Facebook and his post about earwig wings and Depsua, Joeblow, Scotty435 and others here, I have a really neat plan for building a folding Stilling Well inside my new radial flow filter for our aquaponics system.
------
Loren Kaysing wrote: So earwigs have wings. Incredible ones. Who knew? They fold down immensely, as much as 18:1 in some species, using some sort of self-folding spring structure that doesn't require any musculature, and locks in place when deployed. Looks like they basically shake them quickly to unfurl them, and then one beat and they fold themselves up and disappear under their shell

Here's a pretty gold one that stretches its wings at 0:30


In case you missed it:
Attachment:
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The reason I want a larger stilling well is to slow the velocity of water / fish waste movement as it drops down inside the cone-bottom tank. My hope is by slowing the waste water it will freely drop with less agitation and stay in the cone part for easy removal.

I still need to speak with the man who is helping on the Charter school (Rio Gallinas) AP Mariano Ulibarri to see if my idea can be created with a 3D printer.
In a nutshell I need to install a shroud inside the small mouth of the barrel and have it spread like an umbrella inside.

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:wave1: Brian's AP
:dontknow: I don't understand all I know about this :dontknow:
Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '18, 05:38 
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Neat idea Brian. You might even do better than a similarly sized smooth walled bucket or pipe just because of the folds.


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