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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '15, 16:43 
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so this morning ph has gone back down nitrates still high

will add some more eggshells and epsom shortly

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PostPosted: Apr 18th, '15, 15:55 
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ph down at the low 6's this morn nitrates down around 250ppm nitrates disappeared again
iron and potasium should be in the mail

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PostPosted: Apr 18th, '15, 16:07 
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Sounds good FishyFarmer, I think you're making some progress :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '15, 16:12 
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the salt here has iodine in it

ingreedienst are:

iodine
potassium chloride
release agents
calcium carbonate
silica
Sodium ferrocyanide (listed as E535)

interesting-thinking possibly as a foiler spray although not too sure if i even should be eating that lol


this morn PH is way down agian- 6ish
nitrates are down too 150ish
nitrites are gone agian whohoo!

i guess ill keep adding eggshells got another batch ready from breaky

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Last edited by fishyfarmer on Apr 19th, '15, 16:27, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '15, 16:20 
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Look around, most of the salt here has it as well. Untreated sea salt or pool salt is probably your best bet. I wouldn't spray it on.


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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '15, 17:11 
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tnx so much for being around scotty its hard finding info in a foreign language where no one has even heard of aquapoinics
so its good at least 1 person is helping me online

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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '15, 17:18 
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Glad to help FishyFarmer :thumbright:

Where's your ammonia at?

If your pH reads 6 it could be lower than that. Some of the kits don't read below 6 so you have to watch out for that if that's the way your kit is. The bacteria in the biofilter can stop working if it gets too low.


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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '15, 19:14 
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no idea where ammonia is dont have a test for that
my ph test is from the hydro shop- tests 4-11

what about the seedlings- you think thats iron def?

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PostPosted: Apr 20th, '15, 04:10 
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fishyfarmer wrote:
what about the seedlings- you think thats iron def?


That's what I'm thinking.

-----

I've been giving the rest of this some more thought and basically you have a shortage of nutrients. When the nitrates get down between 0 and 20 you'll need to have a plan for supplying the plants most of the nutrients they need, until the fish can get the job done.

I'll suggest the blood and bone method since these are often included in fish food and supply many of the nutrients (50gms per 1000L of grow bed media every 2 or 3 weeks depending on how the plants look)(pH from what I've read, must be below 7 for the phosphorus in bone meal to become available). Some chelated iron sprayed on as we've talked about and maybe the occasional dose of maxicrop or seasol seaweed extract (for the growth promoters. You might be able to get by with the bone meal and your potassium nitrate instead of blood and bone but that might be missing something, I'm not sure :dontknow:

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PostPosted: Apr 20th, '15, 08:48 
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fishyfarmer wrote:
the salt here has iodine in it
Hi Fishyfarmer, it is difficult trying to find obscure things in another language. I remember the epic struggle I had to find peanut butter and coriander in Bologna so that I could cook up a satay for our italian hosts...

Okay, salt... I have recently salted my system to 1ppt to help my trout over a nitrite spike. The chloride ions are preferentially taken up across the gills, reducing the uptake of nitrite which binds with the haemoglobin and reduces its capacity to transport oxygen (yeah, I am a scientist, and I like to know why).

I needed 1.5kg for my ~1500 L system. I found 500g packets of rock salt (only evaporated sea water, no additives) in the supermarket for ~$2 each. I dissolved it in a bucket and added some to the FT and some to the ST, although some folks just chuck it in and let it gradually dissolve.

I also suggest laying off too many nutrient additives all at once and giving your system and plants a bit of time so you can see the results of what you are doing (no disrespect to Scotty's knowledgeable advice :notworthy: :) ). It is so tempting to keep fiddling, especially in the early days.

Good luck :)

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PostPosted: Apr 20th, '15, 17:23 
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yeah i agree too much too soon is bad

havnt dosed with epsom for a while
PH seems to be going down to 6 regardless so ill leave it until unless it drops below( eggshells is the only PH up i have anyway so will look into smth to ph up and add calcium- need to go to the garden centre-bunnings like shop- but its not inthe city so will go on wed to look for blood bone and agricultural lime)

waiting on iron an will dose with that

pot sulfate is what i got but will wait until chillis fruit to add it

cheers

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PostPosted: Apr 21st, '15, 00:22 
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right now Ph is the my main concern it keeps creeping down to 6
egg shells dont seem to be helping all that much( i should note that when i finally got around to lowering my ph it took 20ml of nitric acid per day for like 10 days to get the buffers to stop pushing it back up over 8)

i assume adding more eggshells wont really help that much seen as they will be spent only when they completely de solve? so more eggshells just means more surface area adding buffers right? not tottaly useless but still will look for calmag hydroxide this wed

also i fed the fish just a little snack but its been a few days and i couldnt help myself they practically jump out of the tank when they see me hoping to get fed

can i add toothpaste to raise the PH?

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PostPosted: Apr 21st, '15, 00:56 
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joc wrote:
I also suggest laying off too many nutrient additives all at once and giving your system and plants a bit of time so you can see the results of what you are doing


Agreed, I prefer not to add anything unless I see a deficiency but sometimes it's necessary. Having said that...

I was surprised looking back through this thread that no one has asked you what kind of food you're using ? Your typical flake food is not designed for fish growth and probably won't provide enough nutrients for the plants. Use a good quality pellet feed if you can find it (like purina or skrettings but there are others - something with 35% protein or below since these are goldfish). 35% is actually high for goldfish. Just doing that might take care of the problems you're having with nutrient deficiencies. Might want to give things a chance with a better feed but in the end it still might be necessary to use some of the B and B to get back on track. Might want to check out this thread and others since there is some discussion regarding goldfish and feeding - http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=20604

[url]can i add toothpaste to raise the PH?[/url]

I can't see where this would do much good and could hurt the fish. Since it took so much Nitric acid to lower the initial pH, try taking a known quantity of the fish tank water and using a tiny bit of your tap water (again a known amount) to adjust it's pH to around 7 then let it sit for a couple of hours and test the pH again. If it hasn't changed then it should be safe to add this back into your tank. Keep doing small additions like this and you'll gradually change the pH. Try not to make changes greater than 0.4 pH points per day to the main fish tank. Goldfish can probably take much greater changes than this.

It should be easier to do the second time since you have a rough idea of how much water from each source you used but test the pH anyway.


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PostPosted: Apr 21st, '15, 14:28 
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The food is JBL 4 in 1 pond sticks
I havnt been that satisfied with it so will get something else when this runs out(soon)
here are the manufactuers specs
Attachment:
Screen shot 2015-04-21 at 08.25.47 AM.png
Screen shot 2015-04-21 at 08.25.47 AM.png [ 68.7 KiB | Viewed 1397 times ]

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PostPosted: Apr 21st, '15, 16:11 
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Do a search on the forum about the fish food. I don't grow goldfish but I'm seeing that some of the other growers are just using whatever high protein commercial feed they can find for their comets, goldfish and koi. This might be the best way to go for the plant growth. Might even work with some trout chow if the size is right. We'll see if anyone growing goldies that's done well with the plants has some input too.

anyone?


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