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PostPosted: Sep 20th, '16, 09:53 
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retested indifferent spot without circulating and ph is 7.4. I should be ok huh?


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PostPosted: Sep 20th, '16, 15:19 
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Sounds good so far Chris :thumbright: . Might go back up once you circulate the water but only one way to find out. Regardless I think the pH will drop after not too long without doing any additions, just let nature take it's course.


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PostPosted: Sep 21st, '16, 06:35 
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pH went back to 8.2. what is the best way to cycle? I can go to the Creek and get some minnows or use feed. Wife is against pee for ammonia and I don't want to get pure ammonia. I have sacked ammonia for soil planting.


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PostPosted: Sep 21st, '16, 14:04 
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Either the fish or the sacked ammonia will work. The fish might take longer and there is the risk of getting too much ammonia and killing them so I'd probably use a small quantity of the ammonia to cycle the system. Don't overdo it that can actually slow down cycling.


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PostPosted: Sep 22nd, '16, 00:51 
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using 34-0-0 12s, ammonia with urea, I have .25 ppm in approximately 378gal of water. how much ammonia is good? so far what I've read is 1.0 or 4.0, 8.0 is overkill.


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PostPosted: Sep 22nd, '16, 02:24 
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I'd go with 1 or 2 and then give it the same amount after this is used up to see how long it takes to break down the ammonia to nitrate. You want to see the level drop to zero within 24 hours if I remember right and that tells you that the system is cycled well enough. Look for fishless cycling and you should find that info.


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PostPosted: Sep 25th, '16, 08:35 
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Hiya Chris, I used fish emulsion to cycle opposed to straight ammonia as it adds trace elements to assist the plants.
I agree with Scotty @ 1-2ppt ammonia. Too much can retard the bacteria apparently.

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PostPosted: Sep 27th, '16, 03:46 
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I never got my ammonia levels above .50. last Thursday I added 20 oz of clean Creek water and I have nitrite at .25 ppm. I have a green and brown growth inside the ft and rff.


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PostPosted: Sep 27th, '16, 04:13 
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It may just be the normal biofilm but if your tank isn't shaded you could be getting too much algae growth. The biofilm is normal and not something you need to remove - it's on the walls of the tank and other locations and is usually brownish. Algae is usually green but not always. If you get a lot of algae it causes pH swings and also robs the plants in the system of nutrients they could be using. For this reason it's a good idea to shade the fish tank and any other locations where you can get lots of algae growth.


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PostPosted: Sep 27th, '16, 05:47 
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Got it shaded now. Thanks


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PostPosted: Oct 3rd, '16, 04:25 
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I tried some seeds and sprouts in my system. My nitrates disappeared before anything started growing only have barely noticeable alge, trying to kill it.


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File comment: this is a cyanae pepper I put in a week ago and bottom leaves are turning yellow.
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PostPosted: Oct 3rd, '16, 11:36 
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Chris,

Sure is a nice seeing sprouts popping up like that! :thumbright:

Have you checked that gravel for high alkalinity? Some of those rocks sure look limestone-like. A simple vinegar test now might avoid a lot of fighting high pH later.

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PostPosted: Oct 3rd, '16, 21:52 
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there neutral, my ph is stable at 7.2. but my nitrites and nitrates keep disappearing.


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PostPosted: Oct 3rd, '16, 22:42 
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My TDS is 123 I don't think that means hard water, Am I wrong?


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PostPosted: Oct 6th, '16, 05:58 
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TDS went to 140 and PH shot up to8.4. nitrates at 5. applied maxicrop plus iron to pepper plant still waiting for results.


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