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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 08:35 
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Yes, you want your nitrites and ammonia to be near zero, and return to near zero quickly after adding ammonia equivalent to what your fish will be adding. Adding ammonia to ~1ppm and seeing zero ammonia and zero nitrites by the next day will mean you're ready to go.
You should keep an eye on the levels for a while after adding fish, or increasing their feeding rate later on, just to make sure the bacteria are handling the load, and you can cut back the feed a bit if the ammonia and nitrite levels go up.

Adding 1ppt salt helps protect against high nitrite levels, and is ok to have in your system all the time anyway, as a general 'fish health tonic'.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 09:40 
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Thanks Gordon,

how much salt is required to create 1 ppt in 1600 lt of water? Where is that measured?
Any kind of table salt?
What do you think about the water exchange idea ?

Pete.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 10:40 
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One part per thousand salt would be one kilo per thousand litres of water - so in 1600 l it would be 1.6 kilos. Table salt generally has iodine and anti-clumping agents added to it, which isn't what you want in your system; look for 'pond salt' at aquarium supply shops or 'pool salt' at hardware stores / pool supply places.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 10:52 
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The B store has large bags of pool salt for $not too much, it's what I use.

I wouldn't bother with exchanging water, it wont speed the process up - you really want the nitrite and ammonia in your system when getting your bacterial colony estabished- it's their food.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 18:53 
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Doesn't look like it wants to change much, how can the ammonia increase with out input to the system?. Ft is slowly becoming a lighter brown and can see deeper into the tank.


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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:06 
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Remind me what your ammonia source is? If it is not ammonia additive (intentional or not- dead critters etc) related, then it could be test related, there isn't really anything else it could be.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:10 
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Petesake wrote:
how can the ammonia increase with out input to the system?.

Because Powerfeed doesn't contain just ammonia - it contains nitrogen compounds that break down into ammonia (urea and so forth). If you put in enough that the water turned brown and is still kinda brown, that's a lot and it's still processing.

This is one reason why it's really easy to overdose with products like Powerfeed and Charlie Carp if you're trying to add some nutrients/nitrates to your system. You add a little, a few days later the numbers are still low and you're impatient so you figure that wasn't enough and add some more, and then WHOOPS ammonia/nitrite spike! Ask me how I know... :whistle: :shifty: At least you're not doing it with fish in the system. :oops:

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:20 
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*reads back on the thread*

...yeah, you put in 600ml of Powerfeed ten days ago. That's a lot, so it's going to take quite a while to process through. Time to practice being patient. :support:

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:23 
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On the 14/10 I put approx 360 ml of Powerfeed into the fish tank. Nothing since then except the 60 lt town water top up.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:27 
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Because I have no fish would it be beneficial to dilute 50% with town water? or just let it go on?

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:42 
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IMO, just leave it (as long as the ammonia doesn't rise too much higher)... and be patient ;)

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Last edited by Gunagulla on Oct 23rd, '16, 19:43, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 19:42 
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So the yogurt tubs weren't 200ml each then? :mrgreen: 360ml is still a lot - I get a small but noticeable ammonia spike from putting about 40-50ml of Charlie Carp in my system. Yeah, just let it go; by the time it's all worked its way through you should have a good head start on a strong bacterial colony, at least!

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 20:10 
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I estimated the volume then but tonight I weighed a full one = 180 grm. = 180 ml approx. So 3 x 180 + 20 ml (2 caps) + 40 ml(4 caps) = 600ml. You're spot on Mel I didn't see anything happening then WHAMMY!

I makes sense what you've said about the Powerfeed Mel, it's kind of doing the ammonia test for me. I was thinking I should plot this on a graph like Gordons' - only if I had the time...

I'll let it continue and monitor.

Thanks so much Mel, Gordon and other contributors this would be a nightmare with out your advice.

Pete. :)

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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 23rd, '16, 20:37 
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Gunagulla wrote:
Old Prospector wrote:
Why would you go low? the float is used to keep the water level near the full mark, putting it low you would have to drain a lot of water till it started.

Besides they are Not designed for rapid filling, a 1/2" valve fills at a record rate of 18 liters per minute.


If you put it up high, then it will fill the ST up when the water is pumped to the GBs, then when it returns from the GBs, it will overflow the ST! The idea is to maintain sufficient water in the ST so that it doesn't run dry due to evaporation and transpiration, you can only do that with a low float valve.

He isn't trying to fill the ST quickly, just keep it topped up- so it is full, (not overflowing) when the GBs are drained. It's what I have long planned for both my systems - I know it works, because I have been doing just that for years, manually- adding water to the ST when it is at minimum level.



So now I see that you use a float valve in the ST. I use a float valve only for my FT.

I don't use a ST to fill my GB's, of course I don't grow with Gravel, DWC's, or other weird 12" depth GB's.

Of course you can do what my students are doing by eliminating the ST altogether and hooking the drains up direct to a AirLift.

Other weird things I see members on this forum have on these topics.

1. Hard time understanding how to De-Chorinate city water.

2. They will let the fish P in the water, but they won't do the same.

3. Having a hard time getting their bacteria to grow in their bio-filter, when most of them have it on hand in thier backyard.

4. Using a RFF, SWF, to remove solids from their FT water. But they all sit down in the morning to a fresh brewed cup of coffee or tea without the grounds.

5. Cleaning daily Filters, RFF, SWF, when you can do that with 2 s/f of mesh, PVC pipe and fittings, standing up, not kneeling down on the ground.

6. Throwing money away daily, from 2 sources they produce daily. And I'm not talking about fish or plants.

OP


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 Post subject: Re: Pete's first system
PostPosted: Oct 24th, '16, 19:40 
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After coming to terms with my mistake of adding too much Power feed I've elected to let it run it's course.

On a brighter note we had another power outage from 8.30 am till 12.30 pm today.
Why was this bright ? Because I was prepared, oh what a feeling! Within 15 minutes we had the 2 Kw genset plugged into the essentials and off to work I go.

Err - I work from home, well in my factory up the back behind the AP unit. In there I set up my UPS (uninterruptable power supply) for the AP system. It can do other things too like charge other batteries operate electrical appliances up to 1200 watts but I assembled the components for my first and future AP systems. See pics.
Basically, I'm using the Ctek battery charger to charge a deep cycle battery (used for starting my 50KVA genset).
The battery is kept in top condition by the multistage charging system all the time (except when the mains power cuts out).
When the pump timer requests power the inverter draws power from the 12 volt battery and converts it into clean 240 volt power and the charger immediately replaces the consumed power.

When the mains power is cut the charger stops working but the inverter keeps the timer going and when the timer requests power the inverter draws from the battery. The pump knows no difference as it always runs off the inverter.
I'm using an acdc 300 air pump which has it's own 10 hr battery back up supply. If it looks like we'll exceed ten hours it can be plugged into the inverters power board.
The 50 kva genset is operated 1-4 times a day and it's alternator will top up the battery as it goes.

Pete.


Attachments:
File comment: UPS
2016-10-24 19.45.29.jpg
2016-10-24 19.45.29.jpg [ 179.23 KiB | Viewed 3288 times ]
File comment: 90 Amp/Hour battery
2016-10-22 13.38.14.jpg
2016-10-22 13.38.14.jpg [ 162.64 KiB | Viewed 3288 times ]
File comment: Day 22 test
2016-10-24 13.08.51.jpg
2016-10-24 13.08.51.jpg [ 177.48 KiB | Viewed 3288 times ]

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