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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '09, 13:37 
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I`m not sure if a sand filled wall would work too well in the uk as we get precious little winter sun and not much more in summer judging by todays weather :wink:
Thats the main reason for supplimenting the underground system with a large solar air heating collector. The sun falling on the fence goes to waste anyway and if nothing else it`ll save the job of painting it.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '09, 20:02 
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There's another link that does the calcs on how much water you should have in the gree-house as passive heat collection. AHH can't find that DAMNNN.

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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '09, 23:41 
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Found it , hope it helps:)

http://www.greenhousegarden.com/Materia ... erties.htm

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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '09, 03:57 
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Hi Chappo
It looks like they are using the specific heat of 1 cubic foot of material for the calculations.
1 cubic foot of dry sand weighs about 100lbs and has a S.H of 0.19btu/lb/F. For a 6" wall thickness, the sand figure will be 9.5 instead of 22 so you`d need a big wall. Water is much better if you can find the space :wink:


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '09, 04:38 
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Yes water is better ,, as for the sand wall , that is an American study ,, it worked , there is a lot more info there than just a sand wall.

As for me ,, I live in the worlds most beautiful city ,, I'll be happy with just a small increase in temps during winter.In my kitchen now 6:00am MIDDLE of winter , no heating and it's 17C. ....9C outside.
A water/plant -wall ,, as in plants pushed into a wall of growing material may well prove an excellent heat "gainer" as well as good use of space.
The second link does calcs on how much water you should have in a green-house ,, looks very similiar to the amount used in AP :)

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PostPosted: Aug 9th, '09, 08:39 
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Hi Chappo
It was sunny out for a change so I decided to run a few tests on the greenhouse thermal mass system. I have a temperature sensor buried 3.5ft deep (bottom tubing depth) which was registering 13C. I need to get an inside/outside hygrometer but according to my local weather station the relative humidity was 48-50%
First test: Inlet air temp:28C, Airflow: ~200cfm, Outlet air temp:13C, estimated heat transfer to the mass around 1.72kw/hr.
Second test: Inlet air temp:30C, Airflow: ~400cfm, Outlet air temp:15C, better energy transfer at around 3.45kw/hr.
Third test: Inlet air temp:30C, Airflow: ~677cfm, Outlet air temp:17C, energy transfer around 5kw/hr.
Taking the power consumption of the fan into account it looks like 1w of electrical power was transferring upto 30w of heat into the mass. Growbeds should make a difference as extra humidity reduces dewpoint temperatures for better phase change gains.
Its early days and needs more tests at different temperatures but overall it looks quite promising.


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PostPosted: Aug 10th, '09, 00:10 
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Looks promising ,, keep up the good work. For me in my climate , is best keep the ground away from my tanks and grow-beds.
I have sun to work with , even in winter , if i GET THE THERMAL MASS CORRECT AND KEEP EVERYTHING away FROM THE COLD GROUND then 20C plus should be easy .

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PostPosted: Aug 19th, '09, 21:25 
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OK, now it's all getting serious!

Have just spent a ridiculous amount of money, and, instead of buying a small car, I now have a 14x28' polytunnel, 15 growbeds, a 2700l fish tank and three sump tanks coming. Not to mention the 5m3 of Hydroton and a HUGE pump.

Now I just have to work out the best way to
a) plumb it all
b) get the electrics there and
c) build some stands!

oh yeah, and then maybe get some seeds . . and possibly some fish!

And because y'all love pictures, here's where the polytunnel is going:
Image

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PostPosted: Aug 20th, '09, 11:26 
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AND the ivy has been cleared off the shed!
This really is Serious!

Mazel Tov, bon voyage, congrats, etc. etc.

Rick

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PostPosted: Aug 20th, '09, 15:11 
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:D Yeah getting the ivy off the shed was fun!. Compost bin full, green waste bin full, huge pile still in garden.

Have to say it's the stands that are occupying most of my mental time at the moment.Still have no idea what they're going to rest on, or how much it'll cost!

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PostPosted: Aug 20th, '09, 16:08 
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Hi Andrew-1. I used limestone blocks 500mm long x 350 high (2 side by side) with a 200 x 75mm x 1metre across the blocks and then a 200 x 75mm x2000mm treated pine sleeper lying flat at 90 degrees on top of first 1metre sleeper then growbeds.the height is a good working level. so for each g/b you'll need 4 blocks 3 x 1metre sleepers and 3 x 2metre sleepers. the two rows of blocks are at 1400mm centers...hope that helps drew wa.


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PostPosted: Aug 21st, '09, 16:59 
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Thanks Drew that gives me some ideas!

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PostPosted: Aug 21st, '09, 17:01 
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OK, the polytunnel has arrived! 200kg, 18 packages. A fun weekend awaits.

And the pump has just been delivered too - Laguna 11,000. Going to test it as a fountain :-) 4.5m head should be impressive.

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '09, 20:42 
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We had pretty good weather on the weekend for the polytunnel and got it about as far as I’d hoped. All the metal work is up – on Sunday we added the corner reinforcement, door bars and the crop bars (those horizontal bars that we’ll hang tomatoes, cucumbers and squash from).

It’s looking quite impressive now – can’t wait to get the growbeds and fishtanks in.

And the Leca/Hydroton has just arrived – 5 cu. metres – that’ll be fun to shift in our wheelbarrow!

You can see the blow-by-blow pictures of the assembly over at our blog: TraffordEcoHouse

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '09, 22:07 
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Looking good Andrew
The shed is ideally placed for keeping the electrical stuff dry, make sure you have plenty of hands on deck when fitting the poly. A decent gust of wind can hoist you into the air faster than you can let go :wink:


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