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PostPosted: Apr 7th, '10, 03:04 
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TCLynx wrote:
I know people here in winter who keep their tilapia alive by dumping system water and using the 72+ F well water to keep the tilapia alive.


Well water in FL is 72! Wow! My well water would kill tilapia for sure. I'll take a guess and say it's 55F.

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PostPosted: Apr 7th, '10, 08:08 
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Water temps/floating tank: stratification causes warm water to stay on top of cold water. Around here one can swim in a lake with 80degF water and dive down 6' to considerably colder water. I think your floating fish tank would get quite warm. Burying it or the sump in the shade would help far more.

As far as cooling in the summer, I believe you have those two weeks of nasty humid heat in July or August and I would worry those would kill the fish, especially since humid air does not have the nice low dewpoint that we or some folks down under have.

Your red could be algae, but from what you say it is probably iron that was dissolved in your well water and oxidized and precipitated when brought out of the ground. Whether it will be available to the plants or not really depends on your PH. I would assume that you will need iron as even folks with iron bars rusting in their growbed typically need it the first year.

As far as goldfish go, I have 12" trout in a 50gal aquarium (12"x48"x22"deep), so I would plunk them in, but cover the tank so they don't leap out. If they do too much crashing about you might remove some larger ones.

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PostPosted: Apr 7th, '10, 21:45 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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LOL, yea warm well water. My mom kept running the tap waiting for the water to get cold to fill up a glass. If ya want cold water here you have to use Ice or put it in the fridge.

If your well water is that cool even in summer, then I expect that will be your best bet for cooling the fish during the brief bad stretch. Just go for a big fish tank/sump tank and keep it in shade. You might even think about running the system constant flood during the warm season the way Creative 1 does to help maintain water temps with less fluctuation.

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PostPosted: Apr 8th, '10, 04:24 
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Picked up one of those timers on the way home today. All programmed and working great. I'm gonna miss running out there to turn it on though. Thanks for the tip!

Mark

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PostPosted: Apr 8th, '10, 08:22 
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Thanks hydro - all good info.

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PostPosted: Apr 8th, '10, 08:26 
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TCLynx wrote:
If your well water is that cool even in summer, then I expect that will be your best bet for cooling the fish during the brief bad stretch. Just go for a big fish tank/sump tank and keep it in shade. You might even think about running the system constant flood during the warm season the way Creative 1 does to help maintain water temps with less fluctuation.


Well, the FT or I guess ST will have to near the house then. I've been scoping out all sorts of spots on the property (125 acres with a stream).
Not sure if I can swing a constant flood system though because I'm off the grid.

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PostPosted: Apr 8th, '10, 09:38 
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Just ordered one of those timers as well. It's pretty much exactly what I have been looking for, a digital timer with more than 6 on/offs per day! Thanks for posting that cjin! :D

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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '10, 01:37 
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An exciting week here - first calf ever born on Wednesday!
Attachment:
Anna & Bull calf.jpg
Anna & Bull calf.jpg [ 130.73 KiB | Viewed 1887 times ]

Here's my AP question of the week:
I've read that the water in the FT should cycle once per hour but this isn't possible without a ST unless you keep the pump running constantly, correct?
What is the recommendation if there is no ST?

I'm currently running the pump 6 min/hour and the FT is being drawn down 25% at the lowest point but I'm guessing a 40-50% turnover based on the pump rating.


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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '10, 02:08 
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cjinVT wrote:
An exciting week here - first calf ever born on Wednesday!

Congrats! Cute little critter. I'm assuming this is your first calf, not first born on a Wednesday?

cjinVT wrote:
Here's my AP question of the week:
I've read that the water in the FT should cycle once per hour but this isn't possible without a ST unless you keep the pump running constantly, correct?

What is the recommendation if there is no ST?

I'm currently running the pump 6 min/hour and the FT is being drawn down 25% at the lowest point but I'm guessing a 40-50% turnover based on the pump rating.
[/quote]

Well, I have one sumpless system running constantly and the growbed cycles about four or five times per hour to cycle the tank at least once, but there are a couple options that would work with intermittent pumping:

1) in theory, one could pump briefly to fill the growbed, let it drain, then repeat as often as needed per hour to cycle the whole tank. Tough to find appropriate timers, though.
2) more simply, you could pump into the growbed until it overflows back to the fishtank, continue until the tank volume has been cycled, then shut off the pump for the rest of the hour.

Note 1: a 2:1 ratio of growbed to fishtank does not really work well unless you have a sump tank or your fish like having most of their water disappear frequently. I tend to go with something more like 1:1 or less and simply cycle the growbed more frequently.

Note 2: I think the water flow rate and growbed size could be better calculated by feed rate rather than tank size or weight of fish. This would be only a general guide for planning purposes and one would be wise to allow for more circulation or aeration if water quality suffers.

Note 3: Having water flowing through your growbed for minutes at a time is fine as long as you have the outflow set so that the water does indeed flow through the gravel, not over it.

I'd probably add a sump or subtract a growbed to help keep water in the aquarium.

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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '10, 02:15 
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After some great temps (70s & 80s) the weather has turned more seasonal. It's now 39 & possible snow this weekend.
The problem is my light levels are dropping in the house. I mentioned in another thread that the house is designed for max solar gain in the winter and minimal in the summer. My tomatoes are starting to get a little leggy.
Attachment:
Apr16, 2010.jpg
Apr16, 2010.jpg [ 74.08 KiB | Viewed 1881 times ]


I'm starting to think about moving this set up outside. I've got a 55 gallon barrel ready to go for the fish and adding a ST will be easier outside. Here's my 2nd AP question of the day:
Should the 55 gallon barrel go in the hoop house or remain on my deck where it can gravity feed to the GBs and probably ST? I hesitate to put it in the hoop house because it can get so hot in there - easily to 100 on a sunny day.
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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '10, 02:38 
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hydrophilia wrote:
I'm assuming this is your first calf, not first born on a Wednesday?

Er, yes, first calf ever. He's a boy so... 18 months till the freezer.


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PostPosted: Apr 17th, '10, 08:53 
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cjinVT wrote:
hydrophilia wrote:
I'm assuming this is your first calf, not first born on a Wednesday?

Er, yes, first calf ever. He's a boy so... 18 months till the freezer.


A good life and a short one. Not bad.


I would put the whole setup in the hoop house. The fish won't care about air temps and I doubt their water will fluctuate too much for their comfort.

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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '10, 07:11 
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As long as I'm moving out side...
I'm thinking of this set up:
Attachment:
DSCN1191.jpg
DSCN1191.jpg [ 105.02 KiB | Viewed 1805 times ]

A 25 gallon cooler as a FT, and 2 28 gallon GBs. This will be a 12% increase in FT and more than double current GB bringing it up to the proper 2:1 ratio.

The only problem I see right away is that my view of the fish will be limited. Will I notice any floaters?
Next question - how should I have the water drain into the FT?
Thru drains in the bottom of the GBs or spigots on the side so I can adjust the flow?
Lastly, my husband (a plumber) doesn't think the plug on the cooler will do it's job. Everyone place your bets.

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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '10, 07:29 
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We need to find you the pictures of the standpipe drains. You can probably find a diagram in this thread that will help explain it http://backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5311 Basically a fitting through the bottom of the grow bed and a pipe goes in sticking up into the grow bed so the top of it is just below your desired water level so that when the beds fills to the point you want, the excess flow will drain down the top of the stand pipe and keep the bed from overflooding. The pipe can also have some holes near the bottom of the bed so it will slowly drain and when the pump turns off it can finish draining. This way, you can run the pump long enough to flood then grow beds and turn over the fish tank volume each hour without getting too crazy.

You might also want to look at the CHIFT PIST diagrams where the fish tank can be above the grow beds and drain into them then the grow beds can drain into the sump tank where the pump would be. CHIFT PIST stands for Constant height in fish tank pump in sump tank. This method allows for a stable water level in the fish tank and flooding of as many grow beds as the water in your sump tank can accommodate. I have been very happy with this kind of design.

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PostPosted: Apr 19th, '10, 13:13 
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+1. The top edge of the fish tank should be at least a couple inches above the top edge of the growbeds for gravity flow.

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