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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 02:32 
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I spose if I had a great amout of fish I would be concerned with a virus or such but if one of mine gets Ill its pulled out. Luckly none have gotten Ill short of death. I can't see anything other then a bad batch of fish effecting an AP system, outside of introduced contaminates.
So I'm on the good houskeeping train. Nothing goes in the fish tank that I would not eat my self, mmmm... except the worms, and other bugs and grubs that spring and summer bring. I aint eating that noooo thank ya.

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 04:46 
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I will add in my 2 cents...

My brother has a couple of UVC internal filters which include a air powered sponge filter built in.
He has them on standby for his aquariums... They are tiny little units, and I kid you not two of his tanks
went from green-green to crystal clear in less than 5 days. I am talking 1cm vision pea-soup to springwater
clear.

They definitely have their place. Sure he doesn't run them 24/7 but as an alternative to medications
and algaecides I think they are great. I am thinking about getting a few larger models to keep on
standby for my AP setup.


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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 06:43 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Thank you Rupert, that is along the lines of what I was trying to get up on the forum!

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 06:48 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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I could agree with that.

Perhaps it should be a sticky sort of HSM Thread. Perhaps there needs to be a couple.
This batch I've started are more concerned with fish diseases, chemicals, quarantine and recovery from failure.

Perhaps there needs to be a power, pump, air HSM thread (I know many people have dealt with them and perhaps an easily found resource can be compiled by those who want to share their methods.)

Other HSM situations might include;
Got new fish how to deal
cycling trauma due to high ammonia, nitrite etc
pea soup and pH issues
Plumbing, leak (or gusher) and collapse issues.

Ok at this rate, there needs to be a whole HSM or AP horror stories and recovery section of the forum :compress:

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 Post subject: Re: Quarantine methods
PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 07:48 
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TC, I have a couple of 100litre containers connected, they are my GBs from my very 1st BYAP system and also double as my experimental setup plus isolation setup :D

Check out the 4 pics on the link below to see how I have done it - I was testing RSG filters and dual bell siphon outlet connectors :roll:
the 4th pic shows one of blue 400ltr sumps, there are two together connected by a 40mm over the top siphon (keeps both tanks at the same level) - by removing the siphon I can completely isolate my two BYAP systems indefinitely - well until the nitrates get too high.

There is 2 goldies in the mini tank atm

viewtopic.php?p=104192#p104192

Hope this explains it, otherwise just ask :)

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 Post subject: Re: Quarantine methods
PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 08:22 
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Thanks Ell,

Any other quarantine methods descriptions out there?

How long do most people isolate for with new fish?

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 Post subject: Re: Quarantine methods
PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 08:36 
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Our main disease encountered with native fish is "ICH" and can take up to 2 weeks (dependent on temp) to be cycled and eliminated with a salt dose.

I leave fingerlings in there for at least two months, but I want to get them settled in and big enough to be feeding on 4mm pellets (normal size I use for my bigger fish) before moving them to the main tank.

I connect the 2 systems back up together but can quickly isolate and re-salt if necessary...have not had a need to do it so far :D

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 08:36 
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I have a pretty strong opinion about UV filtration. Coming from a pond and aquarium backround, its one of those magic pill things. You get an algae/bacterial bloom for a reason which affect water clarity. By using a chemical or UV you can clear the water, but the bad water quality it still an issue and hasn't been dealt with. I think most experienced people would agree that good bacterial growth and a good balance is definately the way to go rather than trying to control everything. Also, if you research those UV bulbs closely, you will find they lose their effectiveness is a very short period of time. Its basically a flourescent light, flourescent lights don't simply burn out but slowly degrade to the point they do little good.

I've given the advice countless times. Oh your aquarium looks icky and your fish keep dying? Stop trying to clean it all the time, stop trying to make it sterile...give it time to balance and you will have a wonderful maintenance free experience.


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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 08:52 
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But when you consider the huge restrictions you have on what medications you can use in aquaponics

Quote:
But in general fish keeping I use dechlorinator and thats about it.

:sign5: Don, made me take a step back and look at my self

realised that I had installed a water tank so that I could eliminate the dechlorination...mind you, the tank was paid for by a govt rebate :wink:
and I now have to keep a careful watch on the pH levels (swings and roundabouts :roll: )

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 09:56 
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Don't have a problem with UV in the system. Providing the flow rates through it are slow enough.
I have used it in the past to good effect, certainly would not run it 24/7 as the replacement tubes are pricey.
Flush them out after use and they will be more effective for longer.


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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 16:57 
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i like you strangetanks ;)

i believe (which has noting to do with reality ;)) that hydro systems MUST be kept sterile BECAUSE of the the sterility (read that twice).

Life is eat or be eaten. with a sterile closed system there is little competition for organisims if the sterilizing device is removed. for some weird reason nasty organisms have quicker repro times than nice organisms as a whole. get the picture?

but as has been said, there is a place for all things.............just not in my system ;)

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 17:14 
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funny story from the visit to minumurra.

general gist is that fisheries lady was giving a Q&A, some one said something about M.green...........she said "no one is using that in victoria"
a reply was given and she interuppted with "No, NO ONE IS USING THAT, are they.........?" hint hint lol is also a teratrogen, keep away from pregnant women.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malachite_green

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 Post subject: Re: Quarantine methods
PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 18:00 
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the more the fish are stressed in transit / acclimatising the higher the outbreak of ICH generally

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PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 18:01 
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Ok at this rate, there needs to be a whole HSM or AP horror stories and recovery section of the forum


Some of the most often occuring nasty's might be good Sticky's for all including so that we have a quick reference point.
Case progress reports could then be condensed into a final report and then added as a case study.
Rob @Aquagold


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 Post subject: Re: Quarantine methods
PostPosted: Apr 23rd, '08, 21:53 
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Steve, do you have a quarantine set up? If so, how do you go about it?

Anyone else out there?

The most common length of time I've found for quarantine has been 3 weeks.

I'm thinking that I can Isolate the new waterfall (by shutting off the waterfall basically) tank from the rest of the system pretty easily and stick a little pump in it. I can also give it. It's own little grow bed.

I also have a 50 gallon (that would be 50 gallons completely full) bin that I used to use for Hydroponics that I was planning to press into service as a quarantine tank but it would only work for smaller fish or smaller quantities of large fish. I don't think sticking my 46 5-12 inch catch fish into it would be appropriate.

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