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PostPosted: May 11th, '08, 09:10 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Chappo,
In the dirt garden I've used petroleum jelly around the stems of my Okra plants to keep the ants off. Before I did that it was rare to get a good pod that hadn't been chewed into by ants. I'm not entirely certain about using that over the AP system but if I can find a source for tanglefoot around here, that would work even better. I could also make yellow sticky cards then. I've got the yellow plastic bits but I found that most of the home made sticky stuff doesn't last long enough to be worth the trouble.

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PostPosted: May 11th, '08, 09:35 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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I did some spraying with the worm tea tonight. Dang, there were ants still alive in the mesh bag of castings, ouch it hurts when they bite!!!! I really need that order of DE to arrive the ants are driving me nuts!!!!!! I have some horticultural DE that I've used around the place but I don't want to use any on or in anything that could go in the AP system.

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PostPosted: May 11th, '08, 22:13 
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I have been taking a closer look at the garden around the unit I rent prior to my AP system arriving. I have noticed a lot of those fury catipillars - you know the nasty ones that sting you if you brush up against them. I am thinking that the fish wont want to eat them - so any ideas as to how to kill them before my system fets here - I dont want them infesting my AP plants!


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PostPosted: May 12th, '08, 00:03 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Do those caterpillars chew leaves? If so, Dipel dust or Thuricide are both appropriate for killing chewing caterpillars. Trick is they must eat something with the treatment on it for it to kill them. Treatment has to be repeated after rain. Another option might be to dust the caterpillars with DE or DIATOMACEOUS EARTH. If you use food grade stuff it is pretty safe except that it is dusty and you don't really want to breath the dust or get it in your eyes so be careful while applying or wear dust mask and goggles.

Since your system isn't in yet, you also have the option of using stronger treatments right away if you wish though always be careful, follow precautions, and be discriminating when handling such stuff even if they are Organic. (You don't want to be killing lots of good bugs by spraying everything.)

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PostPosted: May 13th, '08, 02:02 
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Chappo wrote:
I do beleive Ants are the sheppards of Aphids ,, they herd them up the plants , milk them and herd them home.


WOW :shock: I thought only humans did dairy farming. Must be some good milk ;)

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PostPosted: May 13th, '08, 02:07 
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TCLynx wrote:
now add molasses water to the list of good safe treatments (this one against cabbage moths and caterpillars, might also be good against other things) Did I get that right?


Just make sure it is unsulfurated . Unsulfurated black strap molasses is best and loaded with minerals ect..

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PostPosted: May 13th, '08, 09:20 
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chive spray appears to work on powdery mildew, i've never had a problem with wildew before so i've never had to treat it, but the chive spray appears to have completely gotten rid of it after 2 applications.


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PostPosted: May 13th, '08, 09:43 
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Timmy,
Please share your recipe for the chive spray seeing as it worked for you. :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 13th, '08, 13:39 
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will do after i confirm it's effect is lasting. should only take a few days to see if the mildew returns


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PostPosted: May 15th, '08, 08:12 
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Timmy,
Regardless of results, please tell all! As in even if the mildew comes back, tell us that and what recipe you used. That way, if some one else hears that chive spray is supposed to work, they have seen here that at least your recipe either did or did not work.

Anyone else who wants to share what they found to work or what they found to suck. Let us know!!!!

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PostPosted: May 15th, '08, 08:23 
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Here is a post from the Milk experiment thread.

Jaymie wrote:
okay, as you said, there are other methods more effective against powdery mildew. Here is some information from Lyn Bagnall, an organic specialist who spends a lot of time at Aussies Living Simply
Quote:
milk spray and carb soda work best on Downy mildew where they solve the problem by changing the pH of the leaf surface to a level not suitable for the fungi's growth.

However, powdery mildew is caused by a different group of fungi that love humid weather and medium temperatures, and continue to reproduce when the weather dries out. Attack by powdery mildew is a sign your plants are low in potassium. A drink of seaweed tea will supply this. To get rid of the fungi on the leaves, spray them with chamomile tea - which is a natural fungicide. Use a tea bag, and steep the tea for 15 minutes. Strain into a spray bottle, and dilute to one litre per tea bag used. You can make it a bit stronger than this if the infestation is severe.


I thought this info would be very useful here. So I have done a spray with dilute chamomile tea on a few plants to see how it does against the powdery mildew, will report later about if it worked. I have to say it is a nice smelling spray to use. I had heard that chamomile tea spray was a good way to prevent damping off of seedlings.

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PostPosted: May 15th, '08, 20:36 
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chive spray - boil handful of chives in 1 cup of water for 15 minutes and spray onto effected area.
it's been 4 days now and no return of mildew that i can see


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PostPosted: May 15th, '08, 21:36 
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Timmy,

Did you use it straight or dilute?

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PostPosted: May 16th, '08, 12:31 
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G'day Ap mob,

Just a Warning on Dipel by Yates.

I emailed Yates direct and I was told by them that Dipel is NOT to be used in aquaponics if you are going to eat the fish.

So please pass it on that it is not safe to use in this way.

Hopefully no to many people are using it !!!

Cheers.
Mustard


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PostPosted: May 16th, '08, 12:31 
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wow, did they say why not?

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