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PostPosted: Sep 6th, '17, 11:08 
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This thread is an offshoot of this
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29044

If you had not read yet, please read the thread first so you better understand what is being discussed here.
I have search the web and it seems that this is an entirely new dirt gardening concept. I am already excited to try this. But I understand that theory and practice are two entirely different things so I am presenting it here to reduce the risk. Any comment is welcome including “this is pure nonsense” if you back that comment with sound reasoning. I will be thankful for saving me some trouble.

For the sake of Identification, let’s call this “Bit Gardening” born on BYAP Sept. 6, 2017. Unless you can come up with a more catchy name.

The entire concept revolves on 3 main things 1). Least possible disturbance of soil ecosystem. And 2) Quick regeneration of the disturb ecosystem. 3) bacteria and fungi in the soil ecosystem convert the minerals in the soil into a form that can be absorb by the plants
Say we clear a 10 x 10 sq meter for gardening and another 1x1 bit in the middle of a pristine landscape which one do you think will have its natural soil ecosystem back soon?
Have anyone notice that generally the plants on the edge of the garden are healthier? I did. When we consider that the reestablishment of soil ecosystem will begin from the edge coming from the undisturbed part of the landscape then we see the reason.

Referring to the drawing.
The brown line is the foot path. Since we don’t want to clear the landscape its better to put a brown ribbon to identify the foot path. Always step on the brown ribbon. This will prevent compaction of the plant area. The garden beds is of 3 feet wide maybe more depending on the length of the arm so the garden bits is like 1.5 foot by 1.5 foot. and the foot path can be 1.5 foot wide depending on the size of the shoes. I have divided the beds into 4 groups of bits scattered along the beds. The idea is clear and plant in small patches so that the surrounding undisturbed ecosystem can quickly re-colonize the disturbed patch. Say plant all the red patches first and then go back and plant the green and so on. If the garden is big enough by the time I go back the disturb bit ecosystem is already established.
The next planting can be done before harvest particularly if you must pull the whole plant. So the soil is always planted. If not then live the old plant and trim it as the new plant grows. soil ecosystem will be disturbed if plant roots are pulled so if possible live it in the soil. Never clear plants unless the bit is going to be planted immediately.

Some questions:
- what is the best way to control weeds in this set up.
-What do I put in the disturb soil to encourage regeneration of ecosystem? Some say crush stone, others say “natural guard”? maybe ocean fertilizer? some sugars perhaps dissolve in water?
-If its your garden what plants should you place adjacent to each one? Or would you rather have same plants on each bed?
On what weather is the good time to start planting? Rainy or sunny? Full moon or no moon?
Most importantly: your suggestions.

Thanks Julian

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PostPosted: Sep 6th, '17, 14:11 
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Quote:
Some questions:
- what is the best way to control weeds in this set up.
-What do I put in the disturb soil to encourage regeneration of ecosystem? Some say crush stone, others say “natural guard”? maybe ocean fertilizer? some sugars perhaps dissolve in water?
-If its your garden what plants should you place adjacent to each one? Or would you rather have same plants on each bed?
On what weather is the good time to start planting? Rainy or sunny? Full moon or no moon?
Most importantly: your suggestions.


1. probably get to them early and scratch them off at the soil surface.
2. put in mycorrhizal fungii spores, compost / maures and worm tea/castings. (you wont need all of them, pick one and add some spores on occasions) Dont use silly commercial products, sugar isnt part of the normal natural processes so goes against what you are doing.
3. if it were my garden i would place them tall next to low etc to take advantage of the height differences at such densities. (corn next to broccoli, tomato next to lettuce, etc....) and try not to put too many of the same type close together - except ones that need it for pollination, like corn.

4. rainy weather is usually better, sunny is ok, but "hot" isnt good unless you like to water a lot.


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PostPosted: Sep 6th, '17, 18:41 
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Thanks Yavi, How easy it is to learn when you got good tutors. :D


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