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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 06:00 
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It's very basic I need to know how to Play with my nitrite nitrate and ammonia levels organically. I have a very small system in the door and my nitrite levels have spiked and still have my nitrate levels . My ammonia is exactly where it needs to be .25 ppm But my pH is high at about 8 . And obviously I'm a newbie at all this so I really need some help here !!! It's a small 20 gallon system with about a 7 gallon grow bed !


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 06:35 
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I need help with my system I need to know how to lower Nitrite nitrate levels ????? Ive been looking and cant find very much help here ! I have a small 20gal tank and about a 7gal grow bed ! it is an indoor grow op ! can you please tell me how I can do this ? preferably organically !?


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 13:36 
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Welcome to the forum Rhyno15 :headbang: .

I combined your posts into one topic just for the sake of keeping everything together in one place.

To answer your question, the bacteria in the grow beds are what process the nitrites into nitrates so if something happened to those then that may be why the nitrite is stacking up. If your system wasn't already cycled that could be why you're seeing the nitrites. If the system was already cycled then adding chlorinated water if it's more than about 20% of the system volume can cause problems for the bacteria. If you already have fish in your system then the best thing to do is to add un-iodized salt that doesn't have any anti-caking agents. This helps protect the fish from nitrite poisoning. Use One part per thousand sodium chloride (basically 1 gm of salt per thousand mls of system volume).

Regarding your ammonia reading of 0.25 with a pH of 8.0 - You're probably OK on this but it depends on your water temperature. http://ibcofaquaponics.com/information/tables-and-charts/. Basically read the temp and pH and if the TAN reading where they meet is less than your reading you're in the toxic zone.


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 13:52 
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Thank you so much I will try this and I appreciate the add the the forum looking forward to gaining some edge from you guys and what do you mean by TAN readings


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 14:20 
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Never mind on the tan comment haha I figured that out ! 25 degrees c at about 8


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 14:25 
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Also I was wondering if you give me a quick run down on how to raise an lower the levels of my ph nitrites and nitrates in my tank !?


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 15:52 
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Rhyno15 wrote:
My ammonia is exactly where it needs to be .25 ppm
Where did you read, or who told you that's "exactly" where your Ammonia level needs to be?

If you are cycling a system it's okay to have an Ammonia reading, but most people aim for an initial reading somewhere between 1.0pp - 2.0ppm when initiating the cycling process. This level will begin to drop as the bacteria colony develops and starts converting the Amm into Nitrites. The bacteria then convert it further, from Nitrite into Nitrates. Once your Ammonia and Nitrite have dropped to 0.0ppm the system is considered cycled.
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Also I was wondering if you give me a quick run down on how to raise an lower the levels of my ph nitrites and nitrates in my tank !?
Don't worry about the pH. In a well balanced system it will start to decline naturally on it's own at some point after the system is cycled and you've added your fish. It can happen within weeks, it can take months, but it will happen.

You definitely don't want to raise Nitrite levels. After the initial cycling process you want them be 0.0ppm at all times. This the same for Ammonia, in a well balanced system it should always be 0.0ppm, if it's not, it tells you your system is not balanced and is overstocked with fish.

Plants reduce Nitrates. After the system has cycled and the Amm and Nitrites have dropped to 0.0ppm, the Nitrates will continue to rise until such time as there are sufficient plants in the system to absorb them. If an established system constantly runs a Nitrate level at 40ppm or higher, this suggests your system is overstocked with fish and/or there are insufficient plants in the system. You can run very low Nitrate levels, even 0.0ppm, and still achieve excellent plant growth.

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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 16:08 
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I guess I'm not reading into the right stuff or I miss understood ! So I think that's my problem I didn't cycle it properly. I got a API fresh water test kit and this is the first sign of nitrite and nitrate I have ever got and they are both extremely high !


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 16:16 
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So what do I do if I didn't cycle the tank properly and the fish and plants are already in ??


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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 20:06 
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Depends on how high your nitrites are and what type of fish you have. Also how many fish of what size?

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PostPosted: Jul 10th, '17, 23:30 
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Rhyno15 wrote:
So what do I do if I didn't cycle the tank properly and the fish and plants are already in ??
Plants should go into a system from day one. At a level of 80.0ppm leafy greens may start becoming bitter. At 160ppm seedling development, plant growth, and fruit set can be affected.

As Dom suggested, for Ammonia and Nitrite it depends on the levels. If the Ammonia approaches toxic levels for the fish before the system is cycled, you will need to do partial water changes (30%) to keep it at a safe level until the cycling is complete. Ammonia toxicity depends on water pH and water temp, see the chart below.

If the Nitrites reach 1ppm you should add plain sea salt (ie: pool salt) at 1gm/Litre. If they reach 2ppm you should do partial water changes to keep it under control until the cycling process is complete. Don't forget to add additional salt to compensate for any top-up water after the partial water changes.


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Ammonia toxicity chart.jpg [ 43.1 KiB | Viewed 197 times ]

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PostPosted: Jul 11th, '17, 15:39 
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Ok thank you guys very much for the knowledge given ! I'm gonna work on my system and I'll get back to you and let you know how it goes !!!


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PostPosted: Jul 11th, '17, 15:41 
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One more question if I might ask !? What's the best way to give your plants nutrients ? And what should I use ? Like Banana peels eggshells stuff like that organically right ?


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PostPosted: Jul 11th, '17, 15:52 
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Fish poo!...

Plus a capful of Seasol or maxicrop per 500L per week.

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PostPosted: Jul 11th, '17, 15:59 
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Ok Definitely! But I can also spray the plant direct with a spray bottle correct ?


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