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PostPosted: May 13th, '16, 13:44 
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MasterCATZ wrote:

so I take it your cycling the pump because it gets hot fast ? it does not appear to be setup like the AC versions


No, its my backup air, and I don't yet have a pressure switch to activate it on my small system, (I do on the big system), so I just run it part-time for now, so if the main pump or AC power fails, the trout will be ok. There are recent pics in my small system thread of how much air it delivers.

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is it an rotating piston ?


I haven't pulled it apart, but suspect it would be a reciprocating piston - up and down, rather than rotating.

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PostPosted: May 14th, '16, 09:35 
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on a crank was what I was actually thinking about

found some 24v ones trying to find 48V as that would be ideal for me

then they can run direct from my main battery bank


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PostPosted: May 14th, '16, 10:50 
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I doubt you will find any 48V ones- just use a good quality DC to DC converter.

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PostPosted: May 14th, '16, 12:13 
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MasterCATZ wrote:
on a crank was what I was actually thinking about

found some 24v ones trying to find 48V as that would be ideal for me

then they can run direct from my main battery bank



You could hook them up in series with one another, giving you 2 pumps on the same 48v circuit.


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PostPosted: May 15th, '16, 06:25 
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mmm good idea never thought about that
series it is ( downside taking 1 offline will mean multiple units offline )



still got me beat why the DC's have better pressures per watt
it will take a while to find the best depth but I will gladly externally make the water depths deeper to run the airlifts better :P



also dug up the AC pumps flow charts


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PostPosted: May 24th, '16, 14:30 
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Well I was having fun testing all my new DC air pumps today until I blew up my multimedia running the ACO-007 @ 24v ~ 8 AMPS with an 10 AMP un-fused multimeter


For anyone interested I have been testing pumps between 2-24v

and the Hailea are kicking sun sun's butt !!! ( even ran the small pump off solar car battery charger)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

for working pressure used 1.5mm hole this normally gives me .01Mpa ~ 1m water depth

To sum it Up Hailea have under rated specs and sun sun over rated specs
better spending the extra on the Hailea as it pays itself off after 1 yr @ 50 cents / kw

$71.93 ACO 006 rated 75w @ 12v does 63.24w 1 yr 24/7 operation @ 50 cents / kw = $276.9912
$50.09 HZ-060 rated 60w @ 12v does 78w 1 yr 24/7 operation @ 50 cents / kw =$341.64
= $64.6488 difference in running costs

or if on the cheap 25 cent electricity in AU just half those prices
( damn them charging businesses more .. )


Flow rates will be added when I make a hose adaptor the tubing was in between everything I had here only my 25 LPM flow meter would connect ... apart from the ACO 007 but after welding the multimetre
I called it quits for the day
my fault should have looked better for my AMP meter


Last edited by MasterCATZ on May 24th, '16, 14:53, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '16, 14:48 
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Why are you testing at 2V, and all the other voltages under the rated voltage? You can burn motors out by running them under voltage for extended periods if they are not designed for it.

Surely you would be operating a 24V motor at the voltage delivered by a 24V battery, which will be generally in the range of 22V to 30V (top end voltage depends on the type of battery), if you are charging it correctly from PV panels, and not discharging too deeply, or else at a 24V power supply voltage?

BTW, your daily and yearly energy use columns should be headed Watt hours (Wh) and kilowatt hours (kWh)
watts and kW are units of instantaneous power, not energy use over time.

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PostPosted: May 24th, '16, 15:06 
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mosty to find voltage where they are most efficient LPM / watt

these are 12V rated motors
but I have also have their 6v and 24v versions as well

about to pull a few apart tomorrow to see if the motors are different

these are indeed more efficient than the AC versions I have here

the sunsun's will be temp backup pumps no point in running them
they will cost me more in electricity than a new pump

I just wish they had large pumps for low pressure I am half tempted
throwing in a small motor into the larger compressor to see what will happen

and yes I have blowers here 700 LPM per 100 watts
but needing .03MPa pressures high LPM


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PostPosted: May 27th, '16, 14:13 
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well I have been having fun running the larger pumps with smaller motors , they are still doing the same LPM around the .03 MPa range ( 3m submergence ) only at 1/3 the wattage :P
even with the extra cost of buying 2x pumps ( smaller / larger ) you break even after 1 year running time
well for me @ 50 cents /kw

all you need to do is buy different bearings to hold smaller shaft in place and mock up an adaptor plate to hold motor casing in place

I am doing this so I can send the combo back to china manufacture so they can build me something more effient @ .03MPa working pressure

still no idea why it's so hard to ask the chinese I want this much LPM at THIS ( 0.03 MPa ) pressure ... they just keep providing specs @ atmospheric pressure or use low wattage motor that stops working at .03 MPa ...

like seriously why would we want to waste so much wattage running higher pressure with only 1m deep tanks? who here needs 0.1 MPa / 10m submergence ?
( well I guess I can do 8~9m with my 6m submerged SLO / Syphon setup with 2-3m high water level )


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '17, 03:15 
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Hi all. I have also bought an ACO-001 this weekend to supply my 6 x 30Lit fish tanks. Started it up with 3 air stones to see how it works. Ran for about 1 and a half hours and stopped running. Was hot as hell. I unplugged it and waited about half an hour and started it up again with the pump blowing into no stones. Still running. Any thoughts on this?


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '17, 07:16 
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MasterCATZ wrote:
like seriously why would we want to waste so much wattage running higher pressure with only 1m deep tanks? who here needs 0.1 MPa / 10m submergence ?



You aren't running that much pressure with the airstones at 1m, the pump is only producing enough pressure to get the air out at whatever depth you have the airstones + frictional losses in the pipes and airstones.

If you make the pipes small enough, and/or have insufficient airstone area, you could probably force the pump to operate at 0.1MPa though, but you will greatly reduce the volume delivered.

I run 25mm poly for my air lines, only reducing to 19mm in the FT- maximising the volume of air delivered, and minimising the load on the pump.

The most efficient (taking into account longevity)* pumps I've used, of which I now have 2, and will add another when I can afford it, is the Hailea V-60. It is very quiet compared with the various other pumps I have, and only uses 35W for its rated 60lpm. They aren't cheap, but as the saying goes- you get what you pay for.

* The 12V DC Hailea is slightly more electrically efficient, but the brushes wear out too fast, so it is high maintenance and not suitable for continuous use- only as a backup.

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PostPosted: Apr 6th, '17, 07:59 
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I bought two of these Hopar aerators($92ea), one as a spare as I'll be able to run one unit on two FTs.
They produce 3 L/m from each outlet, 720 L/H in total which operate in pairs, together and or two stages of time delays.
Its just a quiet as the previous Aqua Pro DC 300 Air Pump with Battery Backup ($139)
which is no longer available (the hum is about as loud as the bubbles popping), slightly bigger and heavier but doesn't come with hoses or stones.


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PostPosted: May 23rd, '17, 19:22 
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I jumping in over my neck, know dipshoit about electrical stuff except that live power and water dont mix.

I plan on having 2 x1000L fT's with 8 GB's off 1 and NFT and wicking beds off the other.

What do I need for backup power, will only have gold fish in tanks.

please offer suggestions and how they run etc.

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '17, 19:53 
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See my sy1 page 5

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PostPosted: May 23rd, '17, 20:23 
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Hiya Tonz, if you are not heavily stocked the a back up system isn't needed, it's good to have but not needed.

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